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| Bridge gluing question. http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=4974 |
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| Author: | L. Presnall [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 10:50 am ] |
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Hey guys, seems like I read a thread on this a while back, but I'd like to re-visit this topic...do any of you leave a little "line" of laquer around the bridge when you glue it on? Like, scrape the laquer out from under the profile of the bridge, but leave a 32nd or so that the bridge actually covers to get a cleaner finished product? I'm thinking of trying it, but am a little gunshy...this is my best guitar to date, and I don't wanna mess it up! 
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| Author: | LanceK [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:11 am ] |
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Larry, I remove the lacqure right up to within a fraction of an inch and then I chamfer the bottom edge of the bridge all the way around by taking a scraper and running it lightly along the bottom edge of the bridge, this usualy relives that edge just enough to allow the bridge to drop in. Hope this helps? |
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| Author: | L. Presnall [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:53 am ] |
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Lance...I take it you chamfer just a bit so that there's no thick layer (as thick goes) of glue under the bridge? The chamfer allows a "pocket" for the bridge, and then you still get a bit of squeeze-out to know you're down good? |
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 2:10 pm ] |
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Tim McNight doesn't go all the way to the edge, so I tried it on my most recent. I think my finish was around .oo3" to .004" IIRC. Larry-let's see those pix bro! |
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| Author: | Josh H [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 2:51 pm ] |
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Larry Yes I do what you are talking about. I locate the bridge and then lightly trace the outline with a needle. I then remove the bridge (which I was just holding in place). Next I take a sharp blade and cut just inside the traced outline. I remove the lacquer and then glue the bridge. It gives it that clean look you are talking about. A lot of guys do this and I have never heard of there being problems. You will find on a lot of cheap guitars where they only remove the lac in the middle area of the bridge. The result is a small gluing surface which doesn't hold well. I'm sure Lance's method would work fine as well. This is how I was taught and has worked for me. Josh |
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| Author: | L. Presnall [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 3:22 pm ] |
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Excellent! I'll give it a try...Terry, I'll post the photos soon...I may get on a roll tomorrow and get the bridge on and get it fretted and the tuners on!
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:50 am ] |
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I am like Lance but instead of a champfer i have a very small rabbit about 3 mils deep and 1/16" wide |
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| Author: | Alan Carruth [ Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:19 am ] |
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I think you're asking for trouble, myself, if you don't glue all the way to the edge. First: glue is not a strong material: what's strong is the bond between the glue and the wood. You want a minimum amount of glue in the joint, just enough to be sure there's glue everywhere. Leaving a 'spacer' around the edge has got to yeild a thicker, and therefore weaker, glue line. Second: that edge is a 'stress riser'. There may be glue between the bridge and the top there, but the finish will keep it from bonding with any strength. That makes a nice, sharp edge for the joint to start to peel from. _Maybe_ the chamfer will work OK. I will never forget the time a fairly new Martin came in with the bridge lifting. They had left about 1/16" of finish all the way around under the bridge, and it just allowed it to peel up in no time. I sure was surprised. I hope they stopped doing that. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:40 am ] |
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It's what I do. Did it on my first, and honestly, while it's a bit fiddly, it doesn't take that long, and it isn't all that difficult. |
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| Author: | Alan Carruth [ Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 am ] |
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That's it Hesh. And be sure you don't score into the wood along the back edge of the bridge, either, especially if it's cedar! We had the bridge just pop off a Lowden in the shop once because of that. The glue didn't fail: there was 100% wood shear, but the bridge peeled cleanly off the top with no finish damage behind it at all. There were some chips along the front edge, though. You could see the clean cut. I suspect that whoever scribed that top just put a new blade in his X-Acto knife, and was used to bearing down more to get the cut. Moral: aways use a fresh, sharp knife, and the minimum pressure that will score the finish. |
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| Author: | L. Presnall [ Thu Feb 09, 2006 8:41 am ] |
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Well, it's on and the glue's drying...we'll see and I'll keep you posted! |
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| Author: | peterm [ Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:09 am ] |
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Lets see some pics 
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| Author: | Cocephus [ Thu Feb 09, 2006 12:51 pm ] |
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On the subject of bridge glue-ups... I was in Wal-mart the other day and saw one of their fine instruments. The bridge was peeling up about 3/4" at the back. Looked like they just used rubber cement right over the laquer! 
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| Author: | L. Presnall [ Fri Feb 10, 2006 12:46 am ] |
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Pix are forthcoming...I hope to fret and string up by tomorrow! 
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Fri Feb 10, 2006 1:46 am ] |
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I've seen (and I'm not joking) a guy who tried to reglue a bridge with caulk. It was the best laugh I got in a long time (after the customer left of course). Lots of hacks out there. I think I'm going to be switching to the vac-clamp method soon. I use hide glue but it is always a tough scramble to get the clamps in there, but then again I never pre-heat the bridge so that could be the deciding factor. I, also, take the finish off to the very edge. |
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| Author: | Alan Carruth [ Fri Feb 10, 2006 7:37 am ] |
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Back when I was doing more repairs we used to see darn near everything under bridges; sometimes even under _one_ bridge. I remember one that started to peel and they worked in some rubber cement. When that didn't work they tried epoxy, hot melt glue, and something that could have been caulk, all without trying to remove any of the prior 'glues' or taking the bridge up. The stratigraphy was very clear when we got the bridge loose. Shows you how little most poeple know about glue, I guess. |
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